A two-channel module turns any conventional blind motor into one you can drive from a phone. But there is a difference between “the outputs raise and lower the blind” and “the blind knows where it is”, and that difference comes down to two steps many people skip.
Before starting
Switch off the power and verify the absence of voltage. This installation calls for knowing the wiring diagrams and the applicable regulations. If you are not electrically trained, it is not for you.
Two checks beforehand that save a second visit:
- The motor’s current draw against the module’s rating. A large awning motor or a big blind can ask for more than the relay allows. Check it against the motor’s data sheet, not by eye.
- Wi-Fi coverage inside the blind box. It is a hostile spot: an enclosed box, sometimes with a metal profile. Measure it there, not in the middle of the room.
The wiring
Live and neutral to the module’s supply, and the two outputs to the motor’s up and down windings. The motor’s neutral goes where it normally goes.
Follow the manufacturer’s diagram. A blind motor is not a lamp: energising both windings at once is exactly what must never happen, and it is what the cover profile exists to prevent.
Step 1: the cover profile
Once powered, the module broadcasts its own access point. Join it and open 192.168.33.1 in a browser.
Out of the box you will see two independent outputs, as though they were two separate switches. That is not what you want for a blind. Go to the settings, find the device profile and change it to Cover. Save.
That change is not cosmetic. It enables the internal logic that manages movement in two directions: waiting times between changes of direction and, above all, interlock protection — the guarantee that both outputs are never live at the same time. It is what separates a safe installation from one that can burn out a motor.
The interface changes by itself: where there were two switches, you get up, down and stop.
Step 2: calibration, which is not optional
With the profile active, you must calibrate. The module runs the blind through its full travel, up and down, to measure how long it takes.
Without that figure the device can raise and lower, but it does not know where it is. With it you get two things:
- Intermediate positions. “Take it to 50%” only means something if the module knows what 100% is. It is the feature the client will use every day.
- Obstacle and end-of-travel detection. If a movement takes different from what was learned, something is wrong: the blind is jammed or has met something on the way.
Skipping calibration is the number one reason a client says “the blind automation doesn’t work properly”. It does work: nobody told it where the ends were.
Step 3: the network
Put the module into client mode and join it to the home Wi-Fi. With a static IP, and here the advice is firmer than usual because of where the device is going to live: inside the blind box, behind the cover.
A home rarely has just one blind. Four, six, eight modules, all wanting the same profile and all wanting a network. The SIT-IoT app provisions them as a batch with their static addresses in a single pass, and across eight windows that is half a morning of difference.
Leave the cloud enabled if the client wants remote control or voice assistant integration.
What happens six months later
Blind modules have the worst possible combination: they are buried somewhere awkward and nobody looks at them until they fail. Opening a blind box to check a device is not a five-minute visit.
In the console, each module’s last seen tells you which ones are still online without climbing anywhere. In a house with eight blinds, seeing all eight reporting is the confirmation that the installation is still whole.
And the firmware version matters more than usual here: these modules take over-the-air updates, and the one left behind is precisely the one you will not want to go and find when it starts causing trouble.
If something is wrong
- It raises and lowers but ignores intermediate positions: it has not been calibrated, or it was calibrated with the blind already partway.
- The controls are inverted: the two outputs are swapped. Fix it in the wiring or the configuration, not by retraining the client.
- It stops partway: this may be legitimate obstacle detection — a dirty guide, a blind catching — rather than a module fault. Look at it mechanically first.
- It loses the network when the box is closed: coverage. Test with the box shut, not with the cover off.
Spend five minutes showing the client the position control. It is the feature that justifies the installation, and the one nobody discovers on their own.
The app and the console work with Gen2, Gen3 and Gen4. The app is on Google Play: SIT-IoT Smart Installer Tool.